Vogue 9266 Dress

Earlier this year, I was feeling totally down on my sewing hobby. The pattern and fabric stash was (and still is) out of control, and nothing called to me to be made despite having gaps in my wardrobe. Then someone’s make of Vogue 9266 popped up in my Facebook feed, and I had to have it. So much so that I did not even wait for a pattern sale. Nope, I fished this one out of the pattern cabinet and paid the 40% off list price. Then despite the amount of fabric I already own, I could not find that perfect match. Enter the Black Friday sale at G Street Fabrics and this gorgeous wool crepe was perfect for my project.

This is one of the Very Easy Vogues, which really only means not a lot of pattern pieces. In this case, the dress is a front, back, and sleeve. The shaping is created through fisheye darts through the midriff and neck darts into the funnel neckline. This paralyzed me as the fit needed to be spot on before cutting. High necklines are an issue for me and frankly, I have not had a lot of luck with darts in the past few years. I figured I would whip up a muslin or two and be on my merry way.

Ha! Seven muslins are in that pile

This was the first time I have struggled with a full bust adjustment. I normally do the slash and spread as detailed in Fit for Real People, but it creates a horizontal bust dart that I did not want. I figured it would be a simple matter of rotating it into the fisheye dart, but no matter what I did, I couldn’t make it work. Out of desperation I decided to use the pivot and slide method from Pattern Fitting with Confidence by Nancy Zieman. I have never used that method before but my needed width additions would preserve the original proportions as I did not need extensions or adding a dart. The muslins were a pain to do but I got a lot of practice at doing darts. To check the neckline fit, I would baste 5/8” from the cutting line, turn under the seam allowance and topstitch 1/8” from the basting stitches, and trim off the excess. I picked up that bit from Catina on the formalwear forum at Pattern Review back when I made that ballgown two years ago. I was able to get the front fit squared away relatively quickly, but the back was a mess. I took out length here, added there, pinched out a swayback then had to add again for my derriere and nothing was working. I finally accepted that I have a high round back but was ending up with insane excess length below my shoulder blades. The pivot and slide was making the back too wide over my shoulder blades and so I was getting folds of fabric everywhere. I guess it’s a good problem to have, with things too big but I was having difficulties figuring out how to get rid of fabric without adversely affecting the fit of the front. So here is what I ended up doing alteration-wise:

  • Back- removed 1/2” length upper back, 1” swayback tuck, 1.5” wedge added above the hipline, 1” high round back rotating half of that into the neck dart, 3/8” narrow shoulder
  • Front- equivalent of 3/4” FBA, 1/2” wedge for length in abdomen, 1/4” hollow chest tuck, same narrow shoulder, 3/8” forward shoulder adjustment, and lowered the neckline 1”

Did I mention it was 30 degrees out when taking these pictures?

On the whole I am happy with the fit, but I did not properly account for how much looser it would feel with the wool crepe vice the cotton muslin. I was actively trying to preserve the proportions of the fitted dress per the ease chart, and in the bust, it is. However, through the waist in particular, it’s big (close to 4 inches of ease above my actual measurement). The muslins were not like this at all, so I think it’s just how my fashion fabric behaves. It also means that my super curvy back seam no long looks super curvy, ha ha!

I got a level hem and the side seam mostly perpendicular to the ground

The side seam wanders a little bit under the arm, which the dressform picture shows better as I have too much room in the front for once, and too little in the back under the arm. The forward shoulder really helps with letting the sleeve hang properly after I messed with the sleeve cap like this person did.

The only real design change I made was to change the back vent from a slit to a kick pleat. I can do an unlined one like a champ, but I have completely forgotten how I made them in the past and couldn’t find the pattern envelope and directions to recreate it. The interwebs are amazing and I followed this tutorial to get what I wanted. There is a little bit too much fabric right at the stitching line across the top of the vent, but otherwise, it’s spot on. I wish the pattern out of the envelope had had this detail, but at least it’s easy enough to do on my own.

All told, I’m very pleased with how my dress came out. These are some of the better darts I’ve made in ages, and this project helped point me in new fitting directions that I hadn’t really considered before. I love higher necklines but was convinced that I just couldn’t wear them, so I was thrilled to learn just how easy it is to change for me. I will say, I think I will skip the narrow shoulder next time as I keep mistaking the armscye seam for a falling off bra strap and I think I brought it more aggressively in than I needed. Other than that, my dress is comfortable, warm and exactly what I wanted for winter. Now time to make that matching jacket!

Poor hound started shivering during this


Vogue 1020 Knit Top

Fresh from the UFO pile, I bring you Vogue 1020, a knit wardrobe pattern where I made the top.  It is gathered on the left side, has three quarter length sleeves, and in the pattern also has an option for a dress length.

Apologies for the crummy pictures but thunderstorms stole all of my daylight, of which there has been precious little this week

I cut out this top five years ago, I think.  I remember messing with it, getting upset with the gathering, chucking it in a closet, and finding it only when I was unpacking a moving box.  It’s a front, back, and two sleeves, and all of the pieces were together, but the one side was still open and I had no idea how I was going to finish this up as I still hadn’t unpacked my coverstitch machine.  The fabric choice for this was unfortunate.  I think it’s from Jo-Ann’s, but I don’t remember if I bought it or my mom.  It’s pretty beefy for a jersey, and it sewed up fine.  However, the print obscures the lines of the design, and honestly, I’m just not loving it.  It’s fun, but I feel like the print is wearing me rather than the other way around.  Also, I’m not really drawn to yellow or bronze tones these days, so I can already tell that its days in my closet are numbered.

The back piece is also gathered into the left side seam, not that you can tell in this print. The hem does sort of fall on that side too, alas

That’s a bit tragic because I like the lines of this and think that it would be really nice in a solid color. The only drawback to the pattern is the gathering is controlled by some sort of stay for the left side as both front and back are gathered, and finding something I liked for that was harder than I would have liked. I used clear elastic this time, and it’s a bit too bulky and it is a total pain to sew with.  That’s an understatement.  I hate clear elastic all the time, but gathering with clear elastic was a nightmare.  Still I think I want to make this again in a hefty knit for winter.  I need to take out more length just above the waist, but all in all, not a terrible fit.

All of the edges including the neckline are turned under and hem stitched.  Getting my coverstitch to behave for the first time in months was an interesting challenge as the looper thread tension was a mess, but once I fixed that via the third rethreading, hemming was a breeze.  So all of the sewing machines have made it back onto the sewing table, and I need to get cracking on some new projects.

Vogue 9100 Dress

I’m slowly picking through the wayward pattern pile, and the envelope to Vogue 9100 caused me to remember, why yes, I did make that dress something last year.

Yes, that’s the view from my back yard.  It’s ridiculously pretty.

This is made with a cotton/lycra sateen from Jo-Ann’s bought at some point in the past that I’m too lazy to bother looking up.  I posted earlier in this blog’s life about wanting to use this pattern to recreate an old dress that I had loved but shrunk out of.  The pattern calls for gathering the skirt, but I changed it into three large pleats that line up with the bodice seams and the centerline of the garment.  So far, so good, right?

Yeah, no.

I ended up disliking this dress, only worn a couple of times, and a year in the closet has only solidified my initial impression.  The sateen turned out to be a lighter weight than the original dress and so it feels more insubstantial through the skirt, plus the pleats press mediocrely.  The waist seam hits just enough too low to throw off the entire feel of the garment and while fitted through the waist, it’s too big in the bodice, which makes me feel dumpy.  It’s a sundress! If it feels dumpy than I’m doing it wrong.

Back view.

The back is almost okay, but note the bra strap that is playing peekaboo on the right.  We’ll be coming back to that.

Side view

The side view makes me cry a little inside.  The front hem is higher on my body than the back hem.  I can’t even blame it on the mild slope of the yard because all of my garments tend to show the side seam swinging forward and if you look through the busy print, that seam line ends up at the front of my knee.  Waist seams also do this on me so I need to be more aggressive in taking out back length above the waist and I’m hoping that if I fix it above the waist that it eliminates it at the hem.  Speaking of hems, I did this one as a 1/4 rolled hem.  I don’t love it.  Then again, I’m not sure that the hem is the least of my problems with this dress.

Oh, both bra straps now, yay!

One thing that was never right from the moment I first tried it on for fitting was the angle of the strap.  The side back piece extends up to meet the side front piece at the shoulder.  The shoulder seam for me is an inch too far back and this was after making the entire strap shorter.  The side of the strap closer to center back lies flat on my body.  The side closer to my arm likes to make a weird fold that I have never had happen before.  This is not the first time I’ve made a bodice like this, but it’s the first time that the strap has looked like this.  I could possibly permit this flaw as it is where I cannot see it except for the mess that is the front bodice.

That smile is me resolving to get the dress and its attendant pattern out of my life.

This neckline doesn’t work.  At all.  I can obviously park the shoulder straps over my bra straps, but this is where they want to be.  Drifting out to the far edges of my shoulders so I can spend all day worrying about them, or putting a jacket on so no one can see that it looks like I’ve failed to double check myself in the mirror.  I wish I could remember what pattern alterations I did for this project because they weren’t good enough, but I guess I have new things to check for with future makes.

I hesitate to call this a crummy pattern, but in the end, I couldn’t make it work for me.  The seaming though the bodice let me get a smooth fit through the bust, but the shoulder straps are just too wide for my frame and I didn’t catch that in the flat pattern stage.  Converting gathers to pleats was simple, so I’ll definitely try it again in trying to make my perfect warm weather dress.  Alas, this dress is not it.

I Broke My Sewing Machine

I had been frantically trying to finish up my ball gown for the big formal event of the year for my husband’s job, and I was on the last major construction seam a mere 45 minutes before the beginning of cocktail hour when my machine stopped working. The needle thread no longer cycled through the bobbin area and I was pretty sure I had knocked the timing out of whack. I was on the verge of a meltdown, but thankfully, having a backup machine came in handy as my Singer 401A stepped in to save my evening.

Please pardon the thousand wrinkles, the pictures were the following afternoon and I never re-pressed the dress because it needs some alterations before going to the cleaners.  The seam puckering I had no idea about before taking pictures as it was not apparent in person and I had even tinkered to get the best tension possible on a scrap piece before doing the skirt seams.  C’est la vie.

This is (modified) Vogue 2931, a Bellville Sassoon design that’s been in the pattern books since 2006. I don’t know how I had managed to overlook it before now (actually, I do, that fugly bow covering the bodice), but there were a bunch of mermaid and trumpet skirt shapes at the ball, so the silhouette did not feel at all dated.

Backing up, last spring I saw a Gorgeous Fabrics posting on Facebook about a clearance price on 100% silk duchesse satin. It was a wine color, and only $15 per yard. I waffled a bunch and in the end got four yards figuring that there was no way that I would need any more than that. ::snorts:: It arrived and the color was even nicer than on the computer monitor and I decided that I would see how my body shape was at the end of summer before committing to making a dress for this year’s function. Labor Day rolled around and I pulled out the fabric, really assessing the hand of it for the first time. My last formal dress made in 2010 was a column, and while pretty, it’s still in my closet and I didn’t want to duplicate the look. I went through my overstuffed pattern collection and looked at several designs that seemed more suited to crepe back satins and not my fabric, which I think stands upright of its own volition.

I found the seemingly perfect pattern with Burda 6866, but it’s labeled for stretch satins only, and it has a French dart, which I didn’t want to deal with for fitting purposes. Moreover, I decided that what I really wanted from it was the skirt, so then I went through Pattern Review’s database to see what sort of formalwear others had made with duchesse satin resembling that skirt and Vogue 2931 jumped out at me. It was the same kind of idea, but much more dramatically rendered. The wine red of my fabric begged to become this pattern right up until I dug into the fabric requirements and saw that it requires close to seven yards of 60” fabric. Undeterred, I cut out the pattern pieces in hopes of finding a more economical layout; but no matter what I tried, it wasn’t going to happen on the four yards I had on hand. I almost gave up at that point, as now it was less than two weeks out from the event, but I decided to give one last browse of sewing patterns online to see if I could find something reminiscent that was less of a fabric hog.


Enter Neue Mode 23374. I have no idea when the design itself is from, but it could be done on 3.125 yards of fabric, and I was prepared to overlook the fact that I was not feeling its bodice. It was my first PDF pattern experience and honestly, with a laser printer it’s not the printing consumption that bothers me, it’s the taping. It was a pain and I had lines that refused to match up on the horizontal axis, but the vertical axes were always dead on. Anyways, halfway through the never-ending evening of taping, I decided that I could use the Neue Mode skirt with the Vogue bodice as I had already decided to ditch the crazy bow on the Vogue dress. From there it was a short leap to overlaying the Neue Mode skirt pieces onto the Vogue ones to cut back on the amount of flaring at the hemline to see if the revised pieces would work with my fabric amount. Happily, it did.

For a project of this size, I made the lining first on a straight size 14 as it matched my bust measurements and my cup size has gone down and this dress does not have shoulders to worry about. I ended up swimming in it anyways. Then again, that’s why I did it in my lining first as I had enough to recut the bodice sections, which I knew would be the issue. That led to muslin number one using the foundation pattern pieces as a size 10 with a half-inch FBA. It was the right length to cover my bust, but too big at the same time, and simultaneously too small through my ribs. Fail. Try number two added more width on the side seams, which sort of helped, but now I was gaping along the neckline, which as low cut as this was running would be not good. I went through four muslins in the week leading up to the ball but getting nowhere on improving the fit as I couldn’t fix the weird wrinkling front and center of the bodice. At least I had assessed that the size 14 was necessary directly below the bodice seam, which allowed me to cut out the skirt sections in my satin Thursday night, less than 48 hours from my deadline.

Nice part about getting a good fit is that no matter what angle nothing untoward is visible. This picture is the closest to the actual color of the dress. For some reason it wants to photograph lighter and shinier in every other photo. The fabric has a gorgeous luster and is not overly shiny in person, but cameras seem to disagree with my Mk 1 Mod 0 eyeball

I had been having difficulty all week falling asleep at night worrying about how to fix the myriad of wrinkles that plagued each muslin iteration, so Friday morning, I decided on a different course of action. Me, two large pieces of muslin, straight pins and the bathroom mirror had a powwow. Two hours of tinkering later, I had a satisfactory answer. I created new bodice front and side front pieces, cut out the muslin, and redid the foundation. And after a week of struggle, it worked. I disassembled the muslin and cut out two sets in the lining and two sets in the satin. The pattern calls for using the lining for all of the foundation, but I wanted to use the fashion fabric instead, inspired by Catina’s work at patternhackfairy.com. Her postings on the Formalwear board at Pattern Review were the biggest help on getting this dress to completion and anyone looking at making anything strapless will find a wealth of useful information there.

Yummy satin interior and no worries when due to the lack of understitching, it wanted to roll out a touch along the neckline as it was all the same fabric.

After constructing the foundation part that would lay next to my skin, I used the muslin pieces as sew in interfacing for the lining side. It’s a nice timesaver and also my Bemberg likes to wiggle out of shape at the drop of a hat so knowing that the muslin pieces were definitely the correct shape was reassuring. I had bought a spray can of Mettler Fusible Webbing as a lark years ago and never used it, but it was awesome for keeping the pieces from sliding when basting the muslin to the lining. Then I sewed my boning channels to the muslin side and inserted the spiral steel boning at the spots indicated by the pattern with a single addition at center front for nine pieces of boning in total.

The white you see along the seamline is the muslin interfacing. Between that and the satin, the actual process of sewing together the foundation was so easy (no Bemberg trying to slide out of shape here).  The foundation bottom has Hug Snug (badly) sewn over the raw edges.

Needle accident number one happened when I tried sewing over the end of one of the pieces of spiral steel. Oops. I managed to break needle number two on the metal pieces inside of the bras extenders acting as closures when I was testing the fit. So I finally had them sandwiched between the lining and the satin pieces of the foundation, I hand wheeled the center back seams on both sides of the foundation. Not fun. By this time it was 10 pm on Friday night, 20 hours left. I gave up at the sewing machine at 11:30 pm when I realized I was starting to not care about lining up seams on the dress bodice, solely due to fatigue.

Not terribly pleased with how the foundation and zipper did not come together quite right. Wearing it was okay, but I need to fix it before wearing it next time. At least those bra extenders worked like a champ though in covering for the hook and eye tape that I didn’t have.

I was back in front of the machine bright and early Saturday morning finishing up the outer part of the dress. Alas, I also had to take my kids for their Saturday events, so I needed to figure out how best to use my time. The dress hem is supposed to be a simple catchstitched hem at 5/8”. The satin was unraveling more than I wanted, so I sewed down a length of berry colored single fold bias tape at the 5/8” and took my hand needle, thread, and dress in a garbage bag (it was sprinkling and I didn’t want water spots on the silk) to sit at a softball game and get the hem done. Three hours later and one severe left hand cramp later, the hem was done for the fashion fabric. The lining was easier as I trimmed up the bottom corresponding to the length I had to take out of the skirt when I cut the satin (remember the skirt lining ended up being a quasi-muslin) and did a machine rolled hem.

This poor train got stepped on so many times it wasn’t funny. Note to self, skirt trains and drunk people do not play well together. I loved the guys who would step on it, causing me to stop short and then fail to realize that until they moved their feet, I was basically immobile ::shaking head:: Oh, and the hem flips up sharing that gross polyester bias binding with the entire world. I haven’t figured out how to fix that yet, but I know I’m going to have re-hem the whole thing ::groaning::

The lining and the dress were basted together wrong sides together and then the foundation is sewn and flipped for the neckline seam. I sewed it in three passes doing the center section first and the right back. I was trying to get the left back done when disaster struck. The bobbin thread didn’t catch the needle thread. I rethreaded and tried not to look at the time (4:10 pm- babysitter is due at 4:30 pm) and then noticed that the needle up position was no longer lining up properly with the needle threader. Once the needle was threaded, I could not get it to catch the bobbin thread at all. After spazzing a bit, positive that I could not possibly hand sew the seam in time, I remembered the existence of my Singer. Yes, in my panic, I initially forgot about it as it was sitting in the corner with fabric covering it. I set it up right by the ironing board (the only space on the floor big enough for the dress) and got that last seam sewn on with a microscopic stitch length. I decided against understitching the top and just pressed it in place. By now my babysitter was on site, and I still did not have the snaps on the neckstrap done. Fortunately, those did not take long so I got the whole beast done at 5:05 pm, the same time we had originally planned on getting to the function. Oh well.

Look at that hem.  I had no idea how strongly the satin would want to curl along its cut edges.

In wearing, I decided that the foundation needs to be tighter through the ribcage and I want to take in all of the dress seams from the waist seam down through the thighs as it’s a bit looser than I would like, though I’ll blame the Spanx worn underneath in this case. Also, the foundation and the dress meet up awkwardly by the zipper, so I need to disassemble the top and figure that out. The last big problem is that the hem flips up along the entire edge, though it is worse in the back. I don’t know how to fix that problem yet. Regardless, I was super happy with how the gown turned out as it matched my vision and I felt beautiful in it. Thanks for slogging through an 1900 word entry, and hopefully my machine is back from the shop this week as I’m super excited to get to some fall projects now that the weather has turned colder.

Vogue 1179 Knit Dress for Summer

Things I have learned: knitting on a deadline stinks. I got most of the doll project done, but it definitely came at the expense of time spent sewing. I’ve started messing with a couple of projects that are not yet complete, but meanwhile I got the itch for a new knit dress. Since my washer ate my previous iteration of this dress, it is time for a new Vogue 1179, an out of print DKNY design from five years ago.

Thanks, Lulu, for walking though the shot.

I love how comfortable this dress is when the weather gets warm. The waist measurements are huge, as are the bust measurements, so it’s airy even in the poly/lycra jersey, which I tend to find too warm in the summer, but not with this pattern. It’s the sort of dress that I love when it’s 95 degrees out, and I can just slap on my wedges and not feel like wilting in five minutes. I used a size 10 through the shoulders and then out to the size 12 markings for the side seams. The pleats provide plenty of room in the bust so I didn’t even bother with a FBA. I did shorten by a half-inch below the shoulder, but that’s it for fitting adjustments. The pattern is only three pieces, so I cut this out around 2 and had a completed dress by 5. The fabric is a weird feeling poly/lycra from Jo-Ann that’s been in the stash now for three or four years. It doesn’t feel the nicest and the colors are not really my first choice, but the dots are fun and I think it works for a casual summer outfit.

Waist shaping, you won’t find that here.

I chose to follow the pattern directions for finishing the cowl neck, which added a bunch of time to construction. They instruct for a pressing of the inner edge and then stitching in the ditch from the topside for a clean look. Every other cowl neck I’ve done in the last few years, I have just folded wrong sides together and serged around and called it good. However, I had done it according to the directions the first time and looked how nice it looked from the inside, so I did it again. It took many rounds of pinning everything into place before I even got to the stitching stage, but I am happy with the results. I’m less happy with my hemming of the armholes because it’s a simple turn and stitch and the coverstitch machine and I were in disagreement about the fabric and how it wanted to lie and really, if I were doing this again, I think I would cut strips of the jersey and stitch them to the arm opening, turn those under and then topstitch down. I think it would be a cleaner finish with less distortion of the fabric. The bottom hem is one of the things I love about this dress as it is 4.25 inches deep. I honestly have no idea if it is necessary for the hang of the dress, but it just seems like a bit of a luxury to have that much fabric turned up at the bottom. Even with that, the dress only used up 1.5 yards of fabric.