Vogue 9100 Dress

I’m slowly picking through the wayward pattern pile, and the envelope to Vogue 9100 caused me to remember, why yes, I did make that dress something last year.

Yes, that’s the view from my back yard.  It’s ridiculously pretty.

This is made with a cotton/lycra sateen from Jo-Ann’s bought at some point in the past that I’m too lazy to bother looking up.  I posted earlier in this blog’s life about wanting to use this pattern to recreate an old dress that I had loved but shrunk out of.  The pattern calls for gathering the skirt, but I changed it into three large pleats that line up with the bodice seams and the centerline of the garment.  So far, so good, right?

Yeah, no.

I ended up disliking this dress, only worn a couple of times, and a year in the closet has only solidified my initial impression.  The sateen turned out to be a lighter weight than the original dress and so it feels more insubstantial through the skirt, plus the pleats press mediocrely.  The waist seam hits just enough too low to throw off the entire feel of the garment and while fitted through the waist, it’s too big in the bodice, which makes me feel dumpy.  It’s a sundress! If it feels dumpy than I’m doing it wrong.

Back view.

The back is almost okay, but note the bra strap that is playing peekaboo on the right.  We’ll be coming back to that.

Side view

The side view makes me cry a little inside.  The front hem is higher on my body than the back hem.  I can’t even blame it on the mild slope of the yard because all of my garments tend to show the side seam swinging forward and if you look through the busy print, that seam line ends up at the front of my knee.  Waist seams also do this on me so I need to be more aggressive in taking out back length above the waist and I’m hoping that if I fix it above the waist that it eliminates it at the hem.  Speaking of hems, I did this one as a 1/4 rolled hem.  I don’t love it.  Then again, I’m not sure that the hem is the least of my problems with this dress.

Oh, both bra straps now, yay!

One thing that was never right from the moment I first tried it on for fitting was the angle of the strap.  The side back piece extends up to meet the side front piece at the shoulder.  The shoulder seam for me is an inch too far back and this was after making the entire strap shorter.  The side of the strap closer to center back lies flat on my body.  The side closer to my arm likes to make a weird fold that I have never had happen before.  This is not the first time I’ve made a bodice like this, but it’s the first time that the strap has looked like this.  I could possibly permit this flaw as it is where I cannot see it except for the mess that is the front bodice.

That smile is me resolving to get the dress and its attendant pattern out of my life.

This neckline doesn’t work.  At all.  I can obviously park the shoulder straps over my bra straps, but this is where they want to be.  Drifting out to the far edges of my shoulders so I can spend all day worrying about them, or putting a jacket on so no one can see that it looks like I’ve failed to double check myself in the mirror.  I wish I could remember what pattern alterations I did for this project because they weren’t good enough, but I guess I have new things to check for with future makes.

I hesitate to call this a crummy pattern, but in the end, I couldn’t make it work for me.  The seaming though the bodice let me get a smooth fit through the bust, but the shoulder straps are just too wide for my frame and I didn’t catch that in the flat pattern stage.  Converting gathers to pleats was simple, so I’ll definitely try it again in trying to make my perfect warm weather dress.  Alas, this dress is not it.

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