Twofer! B5466 Skirt and V9006 Top

I loved Butterick 5466 so much that I made it again in View D, the high-waisted version using the rest of the linen blend left over from making View A. I had always assumed that going higher than my natural waist would be a problem because my torso is super short, but I really love how this skirt turned out. I am a bit less pleased with Vogue 9006, which I used to make the top for this outfit.

V9006done

First off, a quick sketch of skirt details- I made the straight size 14, which definitely fits tighter through the waist than my previous version. I suspect it’s because it’s cut straight across so there are no bias edges unlike the curving of View A. It fits fine from a wearing perspective, but I didn’t need to worry about taking any of it in. I disliked the idea of a center front seam, so I marked the seam line (it’s perfectly straight) and cut it on the fold. Nothing of note regarding the construction, and I’m pleased as punch with how it came out. I will definitely be making more of these as I really like straight skirts and it is a perfect pattern for whipping up a quick and easy project.

B5466v2front
The only picture I have that shows the skirt’s seamlines.

Moving on to the top- I love the concept, but I whiffed the execution of this one. I was highly constrained by only having 39” of 58” wide fabric, so I couldn’t use View B with the bias cut and was instead using View A which is on the straight of grain. Alas, I did not account for just how little this poly charmeuse would drape. Oops. Secondly, it’s polyester and hotter than the dickens. I was wearing it out for dinner with my husband and sweating profusely despite the lack of sleeves and the temperature being a maximum of 80 degrees. Honestly, I’m not entirely certain why I thought buying this particular cut of material was a good idea in the first place other than it matching the skirt fabric, but even this is a tad matchy-matchy for my tastes, which run towards matching in the first place.

V9006alternate
Random note, the back of the neck really stands away from my body. Boo.

On the plus side, this top does not require much fabric, and I had enough scraps to get bias binding in lieu of facings for the armhole. I made a size 10 with a half-inch FBA and a half-inch petite adjustment above the bust. This raised the bottom of the armhole to non-bra-baring land because otherwise, I think it’s a bit too low and this was noted by multiple reviewers at Pattern Review as well. No one noted this, but I don’t like the 1.25” hem, and if I make this again will chop it down a bunch and do a rolled hem.

V9006interior
The inside with the front princess seam, the bias binding for the armhole finish, and a rolled hem on the cowl facing. Even the slip stitching turned out nicely.

I used French seams everywhere I could to contain the fabric’s tendency to fray, but all it did was make the puckering of the seams worse. No matter what I did to try to fix this- changing needles, stitch length, presser foot settings, I could not make it stop puckering on any of the vertical seam sections. Anything at an angle to the grain was fine but not the very straight lines down my torso. Then again, with the poofiness of the cowl and the general shininess of the material, it’s not like there aren’t other issues to distract people’s eyes.

V9006back
Sigh, all I can see are the wrinkles with along the stitching lines. Also, I really need to sew in the hook and eye for the top of the zipper.

Now I hope you don’t think I’m too down on this pattern because I really liked it. I thought it went together nicely, so I’m going to give it another chance with a better fabric choice to see if that solves some of my issues. I’m leaning towards a rayon challis that I bought this summer with no plan and see if I like it better that way. The shoulder princess seams were great for refining the fit and it should make a nice top to wear untucked with pants for my next try at this one.

Meanwhile, the bad part about the end of summer is that it is still too hot here to be thinking autumn clothing/fabrics, but it’s not worth making anything else for summer as there’s really only five more weeks of summer weather left. I’ve been having great fun at my sewing machine, so I don’t want to not make anything, which means craft type projects. My daughter wants more doll clothes and I just did this baby blanket for my best friend’s baby shower, so I guess I’ll be working on this sort of thing until the kids go back to school.

babyblanket
I love this fabric!

Butterick 5466 Linen Skirt

Hello again, my poor neglected blog. I could offer a bevy of excuses, but the reality is I just haven’t been productive this season. I’ve played around with Vogue 1387, but have not managed to finish it yet and in general not felt like sewing. It’s been so bad that I have not even looked at the fall pattern offerings yet. Maybe they would motivate me, but in the meantime, it’s been crickets in my sewing room. I was looking for something else entirely and stumbled across a cut of a linen/rayon blend that is a rather too bright shade of blue and decided that I needed a new skirt.

B5466done
What kind of goofy face was this supposed to be?

Needed may be too strong of a word to use here, but my weight loss journey has enabled me get back in clothes that I made five years ago, and made everything from the last two and half years too big. All of my skirts are newer makes and they are now getting big enough to be super unflattering. In the meantime, I found this shirt in my repair pile (it’s a McCall pattern that I don’t remember, one of the cup size ones) and realized that the fabric is from the same spring collection at Jo-ann from 2010. So yeah, I went totally matchy-matchy with the outfit. Anyways, I bought the linen blend at the time thinking dress (yeah, no) and decided that it would be a good chance to test drive a straight skirt pattern as I’ve realized that it’s a favored look of mine and I have some cuts of wool that are too expensive to be guinea pigs while I figure out the fit.

After checking the pattern’s measurements, I cut a straight 14 with no alterations. The waist should theoretically be tight as I’m just above the size 14 in the waist and just below in the hips. I ended happy with the hips and think I need to take in at the waist a bit. The linen grew enough that it ended up resting at my navel after an evening out when it should be an inch higher. One thing I really like about this pattern is the flexibility of the views. This is view A with the waist facings, so easy for me to open up and alter. Those same skirt pieces are used in the views with a waistband where I would be really upset to have to alter, so it’s nice that I can nail down the fit before doing any of the views with waistbands, which I want to do as well.

B5466back

The whole construction is very easy as there is no kick pleat or back slit. Honestly, it doesn’t need it for regular walking about, but I did notice trying to get in the car when my thighs sort of stopped just a few inches short of where I was intending on placing my leg. I’m overall happy with the fit from the front and the back, but the side view is a bit wonky as the side seam is canted forward. I didn’t notice wearing it, but I did get a pretty ugly picture showing me the truth of the side profile, so something to change for next time. And there will be a next time as I’ve already started cutting out view D with the high waist. I’m really glad that I got myself back in front of my sewing machine for this project so to get past that awful feeling I get when I’m stalled out and my mojo goes on hiatus.