You would think I that I would have gotten my act together and made the Butterick 5995 dress already, but you would be wrong. This week has been a blur of shuttling kids here, there, and everywhere, so instead I chose to make another knit top thinking it would be a fast sew.
Ha! Joke’s on me. I had reread some of my old entries to jog my memory for knit alterations, and pulled OOP Vogue 8831 from its place in my queue and got to work. Yes, this time I remembered to take out a half-inch in the upper torso. Then I sort of wanted to fall down a rabbit hole of fitting because this top has princess seams and the multiple cup sizes and I sort of had to talk myself out of over thinking the project. In the end, it’s a knit top and doesn’t need that much thought to look decent. In the end, I used the D cup pieces because that’s what the nice measurement table says, and the fit is generally right that way. I pivoted all of the sides out from a 10 at the arms to a 14 at the hem. I should have aimed for a 14 at the waist, by the way, as it’s a little more snug that I would have liked. I shaved the side front bodice piece down a bit at the apex as I always get weird wrinkles if I don’t. Apparently, I don’t need that extra bit of fullness no matter what it looks like tissue fitting.
The fabric is a remnant from a knit dress I made almost five years ago, and who knows how long I had the jersey prior to that. It’s a poly/lycra from Gorgeous Fabrics with a great weight and hand. I have some jersey that’s almost too slick running a hand over it, and it’s usually a little lighter in weight than I like, and then there’s this stuff, which I love. My old washing machine ate the dress I made from the other part of this yardage, and it was my favorite knit dress, so that’s one reason why said washer is no longer in my house. I’m really happy to have the fabric back in my wardrobe.
The actual sewing was the quickest part of the whole business and with the raglan sleeves even easier than usual. All construction was done on the serger and the hems finished on the coverstitch. Everything went smoothly, except the slight weirdness of the serger stitching on the front princess seam. At the curviest part of the seam, the looper thread didn’t catch in the left needle thread and I don’t know why as it didn’t happen anywhere else on the garment.
I ended up hemming 2.25 inches instead of the recommended one inch so that it didn’t hit on the widest part of my hips. It also helps alleviate my usual problem with knit tops riding up over my backside, but not entirely.
All in all, I’m really happy with how the top turned out, especially in the front where my store-bought tops either strain over my bust or are too big and out of proportion to me. I do feel the need to share the bending over picture below because the non-cowl part of this top is on the low side. It just covers the edge of my bra and nothing more. It doesn’t bother me as it’s not showing anything I’m not comfortable with, but it’s worth mentioning as I had already raised it a hair when I did my petite adjustment.