Apparently, I underestimated how difficult it would be to get a dress made up in four days. I took a new batch of measurements, which fit three separate sizes. I always start with a size 10 for my shoulders and do a three quarter-inch FBA. This usually works out to a reasonable approximation of a size 14 from the waist down. From the finished measurements, it would fit around my body, but I wasn’t sure if it would look good. Short answer, it didn’t. Fortunately, the second muslin was much improved.
The first muslin was ridiculously tight though the hips, so I added a half-inch to the side seams through the waist and then another quarter-inch at the hips. Additionally, I ended up taking an inch out of the bodice, which in the first muslin seemed to resolve all of the issues with the neckline. So I was a bit taken aback when the neckline was standing away from my torso so badly with this version. I tinkered with pinning out more length just below the shoulder, but it didn’t work. I finally decided that the neckline itself had too much length, so I took a tuck on each side, which fixed a lot of wonkiness that was showing up in the lower bodice. From the side view, the hem is even, but the waist seam is not, with it too low in the back and excess fabric in the small of my back. I’m thinking of just moving the seam line so that the extra fabric from the bodice is given to the skirt section, but not changing the overall length.
I also ended up taking up some neckline darts so the bodice doesn’t stand away from my back at the top. It worked out really nicely, but I don’t want darts there in the final version, so I’m thinking of removing that excess length at the shoulder seam.
You would think after multiple pattern adjustments and two muslins, I would be annoyed to have missed my self-imposed deadline, but I’m really excited with the progress I have made on fitting myself with this project. I just hope that it all pays off when it’s time to cut into the fashion fabric because this is the most fitted dress in a woven material I have worked on in quite a while.