A tale of two shirts

I am finally getting around to sharing my version of New Look 6809, where I wanted to make a shirt that looked like New Look 6892. I think I may have even succeeded.

6809done
My intrepid dress form, Trudy, looks lovely modeling this summer top, yes?

The original pattern that I started with, 6809, lacks a true puff sleeve and features a center front tie on the neckline along with a center front seam. In common, they both feature raglan sleeves and the same hemline. The neckline for 6809 is lower than 6892 and the sleeves are subtly different in shape. This is where I would show you the differences via photograph except I have too many pattern envelopes scattered about and my scatter-brained self has no idea where 6809 is hiding right now.

I decided that there was sufficient ease in the pattern to skip the FBA and just veered out to a size 14 under the arms the same adjustment that I used for 6892.  I eliminated the center front seam allowance, cutting the front as one piece. I sewed up the side seams first to get the U-shape for attaching the raglan sleeves, which went together easily. Then came the realization that the sleeve length, straight from view C, was less than the 5/8″ that I needed for a casing of 1/4″ elastic. Oops. I serged the sleeve hem edge, turned under just a smidge more than 1/4″, and used 1/8″ elastic and stitched just past the elastic to get the sleeve hem.

6809sleeveinterior
Doing the side seam as a French seam is my favorite part of this entire project.

I estimated the required length of the elastic needed around each arm, so I’m not even certain that they are the same. Yeah, not very precise of me, I know. I was able to make a foldover casing with the neckline edge and used the same elastic cut using the guide piece in the pattern. I honestly have no idea if it was for the drawstring or what, but it was a long rectangular piece that I used the size 10 lines and the neckline came out pretty nicely, so it was a good length to use (better than the elastic guide in 6892, really). All in all, I think I got what I was looking for out of the pattern, considering I didn’t really think through all of the changes needed to duplicate the inspiration pattern.

6892sleevecollage
Side seam sewn last, looks not great from the inside.

This project was sewn up before making 6892, so imagine my surprise when I opened up 6892 to find that it has a totally different sleeve treatment. It was not evident from the tech drawing that the elastic ends at each side seam and the junction of the sleeve and side seam was frankly awkward. The sleeve is hemmed prior to sewing the side seam and then super precise stitching is required to make everything line up. It’s not the cleanest treatment, as I don’t like having seams just end like that, so I tied the thread down and used it to stitch the folded over edge of the side seam allowance to the sleeve seam allowance. So yes, my elastic casing with 6809 was figured out on the fly, but I think it’s better than the inspiration pattern.

In the end, both patterns are worthwhile, though 6809 is out of print, and they are similar enough that either pattern can be made to approximate the other. I am definitely done with the woven summer tops for now, but am glad to have made all of them given the humidity plaguing the area right now.

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