Finally, I have conquered Vogue 8997. I started my first muslin on this dress a month ago, and I only finished it today. For an uncomplicated pattern, I took way too long to get this done.
I used a polyester/cotton broadcloth that Jo-Ann advertised as Easy Wash and Care, so we’ll see if that’s the case. It’s not the nicest feeling fabric that I have ever used, but it pressed pretty well and seems less inclined to wrinkle than some of the 100% cotton fabrics at the same price point.
This is one of the multiple cup size patterns, which does a full bust adjustment for you. Unfortunately for me, I’m so used to using the extra width from the Palmer/Pletsch slash and spread method to fit the waist, that when I used the D piece and then cut from a 10 at the bottom of the armhole to a 14 at the waist seam, it didn’t work out quite right and I was stuck for what to do. My seam lines weren’t matching up and it just seemed like I was not adjusting it properly. I ended up using Nancy Zieman’s pivot and slide to add width at the side seams and to raise the bottom of the armhole by a quarter-inch. Also, I adjusted for a narrow shoulder by bringing both sides in by a quarter-inch. I took out a half-inch in the bodice length for the rest of my adjustments. The second muslin revealed that I needed to remove a bit of fullness right at the bust point, though I only adjusted the side pattern piece. The final dress has some wrinkling at that same spot and I think I should have lowered the bust point as it is a touch too high in the dress as compared to me.
Construction was straight-forward, though my avoidance of any bulls-eye effect on my chest led to an unfortunate match up of the print at the center front bodice seam. Just to compound it, I did the same thing again with the upper back pieces. The entire bodice is interfaced and to prevent stretching along the neckline, I used stay tape both front and back. It worked out very well and I’m happy with how the neckline rests on my body with no gaping.
I used the 6mm rolled hemmer foot and the dress hits right at my knees for view B, and I’m only 5’2″. I am curious as to where the hemline is supposed to be, given that Vogue is drafted for someone four inches taller than me. Also, the foot makes a nicer hem than I can do with my multi-pass version as done on my last skirt. Too bad I don’t think I can get any wider of a width to work with for bulkier fabrics.
I ended up omitting the skirt lining at the last moment once I decided my fabric was opaque enough. The bodice lining is slipstitched to the seam allowance at the waist. I even felt ambitious with this and added a hook and eye at the top of the zipper. Normally I skip those, and this one is as such a height that I have some difficulty reaching it myself, but the neckline at the zipper top looks so much better than it did without that I don’t mind this time. This dress took so long to finish that what was another hour of hand sewing, right? I’m so relieved to have this project done, though I’m thinking of making some knit tops to cleanse the palette.