Dress muslin-ing

I’m finally working on Vogue 8997. Who knew I would need to prod myself into starting this project? I love sundresses and don’t have enough, so this should naturally be a home run, right? This is when I have to confess that I sometimes don’t like dealing with pattern alterations. I don’t like being reminded about my soft midsection, and I favor clothes with a close fit through the waist. Normally, no big deal, size 10 for my shoulders, full bust adjustment, use size 14 below the armscye and I will get my preferred fit. This pattern however is one with the different cup sizes, which means that I don’t have to do the FBA, but I’m a little more lost as to whether a size 14 will give me enough room since I’m not adding the extra myself. That means muslins, and I don’t like making muslins. I really only make them when using expensive fabric and for evening wear. So it seems a bit like overkill for a dress that I’m making with poly/cotton broadcloth bought on sale from Jo-Ann. Nonetheless, I traced out my bodice pieces onto the muslin, cut them out, assembled, and put in a zipper. Side note, the invisible zipper foot is AMAZING. I’m pretty good at putting them in with a narrow zipper foot, but this was so much easier. Anyway, the fit was surprisingly good, all considering.

8997muslincollage

Trudy does a reasonably good job of emulating me here, showing the same problems I saw in the mirror. The back gapes, and I don’t know how to fix it.  This is a usual problem for me, and I’m not sure how to solve it.  In addition, the shoulder seam sits a hair further back then I think it should. The fit at the waist seam is good, though I’ll only have an inch of wearing ease instead of the four that it’s drafted for. I may add room to the side seams only and hope I don’t mess up the angled seam lines on the front. For whatever reason, the left princess seam looks wonky. My husband commented about it when on me, and I’m pretty sure that Trudy does not match my bust exactly, so I think I screwed up sewing it? Regardless, I will need to shave a bit off of the left side, but not the right, which fits beautifully. I took out a half-inch on each piece’s shorten/lengthen line, whereas I normally do it through the armscye. As such, the raw edge below the arm is where I’m going to want the seam line, so I’ll be raising that.  I stitched along the edges so that I would have a better idea when the finished edge will be I’m done.  I turned under the front and back necklines because it was easy and so I would know how much coverage the dress will give me.

One thing I tend to forget with V-neck dresses is properly stabilizing the neckline, and the muslin is already wavy. Whoops. At least I have stay tape these days, and I’ll definitely be applying it as soon as possible after cutting into the real fabric. Speaking of which, I don’t know which fabric I’ll be using.

8997fabric
I picked up both of these at the same time and have 4 yards of one and 5 of the other, so plenty for full-skirted dresses.

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